Well, thankfully the big man in the sky didn’t see fit to send a thunderbolt to do the talking when my heathen ass set foot inside his lovely church. Or maybe he just doesn’t exist. It all works out the same for me, because I get to tell you about my lovely time in what I guess you would call the most important city in he history of western civilization. After quickly dropping our bags off at the hotel, we hightailed it over to Vatican City, leaving only time enough to take a few convenient photos of landmarks along the way. Every forecast predicted snow, and as we stood in line to enter the vatican complex, we got the first, if small, taste of what was in store for us. We poked our heads into St. Peter’s Basilica briefly, before setting off on what was to be the highlight of our tour - a visit to the necropolis on which St. Peter’s was built. I don’t know if they intended their church, centering upon an obscure grave hidden from the pagans who oppressed them - to be a gargantuan “fuck you” to their once rivals, and I’m sure the historical record holds no solid evidence to this conclusion. Still, if I were to build a headquarters for the secular humanists on top of a Catholic cemetery, I feel that the message would come across pretty clearly. The highlight of the highlight - seeing a few fragments of St. Pete’s bone peeking out from inside a stone box - really put it into perspective the faith that people once had, and still do have, in people of mere flesh and blood to channel something greater than humanity.
I found the power of humanity to channel the divine a bit more powerful upstairs in St. Peter’s itself. That people could create such a place simply defies the imagination. I may not believe in God, but I definitely believe in Michelangelo. I suppose it’s more my style to take inspiration from an astounding yet entirely human work of art, and what a work of art it was. The photos in my facebook album (the link is at the end of the post) are a selection of all that I took, and don’t possess half the power that spending even five minutes inside the building has. Religious or not, it’s an experience that I think every human being should be entitled to before they die. Perhaps like everyone of Jewish descent is entitled to visit Israel, everyone who has a Christian background should have the privilege to visit Rome? I don’t know, you’ll have to take that up with Emperor Palpat- I mean, the Pope.

I think that’s about enough of the sacrilege for now, considering how much I pushed my luck even stepping into Vatican City. Right as we left, the skies opened up, and the snow began in earnest. There was maybe an inch when we began the 20 minute walk from the Basilica to the Vatican Museum. When we got there, I would say there were two or so. Needless to say, our shoes came out worse for the wear. In the bathrooms, people lined up to hold their sopping socks under the hand dryers. I didn’t, myself, but perhaps I should’ve. After we had all gotten bored of trying to have conversations consisting entirely of the words “cold” and “wet,” we decided to go find the art. We found it. It was incredible, as one would expect from the most powerful religious institution in the world’s personal swag closet. If I’ll ever see more pieces of art I’ve previously only seen in textbooks in a day, I have no clue where it would be. I’ve only taken one art history course in my life, and I’m aware just how ridiculous the collection is. Pictures of most of it (everything of note except the Sistine Chapel, they don’t let you take pictures there) are in the album, so I’ll deny myself the smug satisfaction of listing them all.
Despite the concentration of amazing seen that day, I’ve never been more glad on a trip to get back to the hotel. Sam, Jules and I took turns running a hair dryer over our socks - not that it did that much good - before pulling them back on again still soaked for dinner. I think anything would have tasted good at that point, but I certainly appreciated a dinner that was objectively good. I’m not going to tell you how many glasses of wine I had, but I am going to tell you it was enough to warm me up until wakeup call the next morning.
We got to sleep in (did I mention that to catch that train to Rome that I had to wake up at 5:30? I had to wake up at 5:30). That did a lot. I allowed myself a pair of dry socks, it being a brand new day, and then went down to the day’s orientation, only to discover that Rome doesn’t really know what to do with snow. They had recently received more than they had gotten at one time since 1956, and though that would make for some fantastic photo opportunities, it would do fuck all to get us into the Pantheon. Oh well. We ended up spending the first half of the day exploring the Roman forum and the Coliseum and sledding on the Circus Maximus (slightly less interesting than chariot racing, but more feasible, and much cheaper). The second half, we devoted to every church we could get to (none of them were closed; it slightly disturbs me that churches are more prepared for weather than the municipal government in Rome, but at least it wasn’t all closed). After a brief break for gelato, which it is NEVER too cold for, we decided to be tourists and visit the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. After which we ate dinner and drank more wine and I went to bed.
I woke up the next morning, donned my last pair of dry socks, and hoped for the best. It turned out that most of the snow on the street had either melted or been shoveled away. Not much was open then either, but we did get to see a few more churches. This included one with three Caravaggio paintings in a side chapel, as well as an ingenious little contraption that only shined light on them when you inserted a fifty cent piece. I suppose that’s what they call a bargain, considering there were at least fifty people jostling around to see the three paintings. Honestly, there’s not much more to the trip. We packed up and left, and save for a quick stop in the nicest rest area I or any of my ‘Murrican compatriots had ever seen, we made good time back to Florence while watching an Italian dub of the movie Gladiator. And that, as they say, is all she wrote. Expect more on food, wine, espresso, language, and interesting combinations thereof sometime in the near future.
For the pictures, click HERE.